Directions:From I-90, take exit 31 and turn north towards North Bend. Turn right on North Bend Way at a light in about half a mile. In two blocks, turn left on Ballarat Ave. Follow the main road, which becomes NE 12th St, 428th Ave SE, and finally North Fork Road, for about 4 miles to a Y. Take the left fork (North Fork County Road), signed "Dead End Next 24 Miles", up the hill. The road is soon very rough and unpaved, with deep potholes. You can manage in a family saloon, but higher clearance is recommended, as you have 18 miles to go! Follow the main route, and at around the 18 mile mark, you come to a sort of 'crossroads'. Turn left over a bridge and immediately after you will see National Forest Road 57 (NF57) on the right. The trailhead is a further 3 miles.
*** Please note: currently, the last part of the road is closed by concrete blocks, due to washouts and fallen trees further up. This adds 3.2 miles to each end of the hike for a grand total of 14.8 miles. There were no obvious signs of attempts to clear these problems as of June 2007. Bear this in mind when contemplating the trip.
Trail Notes:I found this trail in a book I've bought for my year over here, so am not taking all the credit for it. However, be aware that the maps in some older books and the USGS, plus all of the mapping software I own, are out of date regarding the last part of this trail. Not a big problem, but don't be surprised when you deviate from your previously plotted GPS route!
After accepting the extra 3.2 mile, 400 foot elevation gain walk from the car to the trailhead, I reached the rangers information. It had not been updated since October - before the dreadful storms you suffered over here - so I don't know how many people have been here before me this year. You need to fill in a Wilderness Permit here, although there were none at the trailhead yet, and no box for them to go in. All of this means that you are pretty much out on your own here, with little chance of being found by passers-by if you run into trouble. There is no cell phone reception out here either, so make sure someone knows where you're going and when you should be back! That said, this trail is worth the effort.
You start by crossing a few small creeks and climbing in loose pebbles mostly. At the moment, with some melt still going on, there is still water running down the trail so it's a little slippy, but I expect it will be dry soon. After half a mile comes the first challenge - crossing Bear Creek (note different spelling to the mountain). It's a challenge because what I assume used to be a bridge is now a collection of logs and nails - you'll have to shin across big trunk or get your knees wet! I did both without problem. Now you carry on for another quarter of a mile until crossing the creek again - this time the bridge is still standing! So far, you've been under the trees, and this continues for another half mile or so, until you emerge into meadows. The trail is pretty overgrown, but you can follow it by looking to your feet - remembering to stop every so often and admire the mountains around you of course!
You remain in he meadows for a while climbing reasonably sedately, until you come to the point where you turn back on yourself (see map). After this the climb is a bit steeper, with little cover at all, only occasional trees to rest under from the sun and plenty of flies buzzing around when I was there. The switchbacks begin soon after; I counted about 50 (most are only about 40-50ft long) and this was where I needed much more frequent rests. Eventually, the peak of Mount Rainier begins to become visible above the southern ridges. You are now about 3 miles from the trailhead and 4000ft up. The switchbacks continue all the way to the top. At about 5000 feet, there is a small side track, which is well worn, leading to an incredible vantage point above the Paradise Lakes. By now, Rainier is well above the skyline and looks majestic to the south.
Another 300 feet and about a quarter of a mile will bring you to the summit. The path is narrow and perched above a steep incline, but perfectly safe as long as you watch your step. The final 20 feet are effectively a small rock scramble - although not difficult or dangerous. Then, suddenly, you're at the top of the world! The summit is a small space, about 20 feet long and 10 feet wide. There is some twisted metal embedded in the rock to betray the fomer existence of a fire lookout (apparently decommisioned in 1973). The views are 360 degrees and stunning. To the West, look for Bellevue, Seattle, Puget Sound and the Olympics. North is Mt Baker, East are the Cascades and the lakes below. South, of course, is the big one - Rainer looking majestic, rising from it's broad base and absolutely clear.
Then, it's back the way you came, taking care on the narrower parts of the trail, down the slippery pebble parts, and of course, crossing that creek!
I managed this in about 9 hours, including the extra 6 miles noted above, carrying 15 pounds of camera kit and water. I'm certainly not in good shape, and probably pushed things a bit - my legs are only just better after 3 days! However, this is doable as long as you give yourself time. I only met two other humans (they were together) all day, so it's not busy! I did get closely inspected by a number humming birds though, as well as those damn flies! For 'real' hikers, this would be only moderately difficult, I'm sure. The views at the top are worth all the muscle stiffness though!